Two Kinds of Kites

14th April 2021

There are two kinds of kites – the feathery, majestic ones that soar freely, and the tethered plastic ones that bring squeals of delight to the child or adult at the end of the string.

Sunday afternoon, after a thrilling hour or so watching horse-back archery at the stables, we decided to head to the coast, to Pantai Remis, overlooking the Straits of Malacca.

Google maps informed me there was nothing much to do here except fly kites. Oh well, could be worse!

We arrived to find the place heaving with people: old, young and very young, Malays and Indians, a hotchpotch of people all seeking fun and entertainment by the shores of the sea. We were the only orang putihs (white people) around. Luckily, plenty of people were wearing face masks, and there was a stiff late afternoon breeze blowing in off the sea.

We were still a couple of hours away from sundown, and everywhere you looked, kids were shrieking and screeching as they launched their kites into the air, proud dads looking on, while mums and littler ones dug holes in the coarse shelly sand, filled buckets, built castles and did what people the world over do when they are by the sea.

It was good to smell the salty tang of the straits and listen to the gentle waves scratching and scraping rhythmically over the granular sand while the sun still burnt overhead. There were stalls ahead selling drinks and ice creams, and fish and shellfish, cockles and clams.

“Look!” cried a little boy, tugging at the sleeve of his dad, pointing directly at me. We really were the only white people here. He sniggered, embarrassed, when I caught his eye.

We strolled along the narrow strip that separates land from sea, glancing towards the five little islands offshore, stopping to drink thirst-quenching, freshly opened coconut juice along the way.

Further ahead we saw a couple of monkeys in the bushes – yes there was a fair amount of trash, and the monkeys had figured this out.

Bikes were everywhere: motorised scooters, step-throughs, motorbikes. Every colour, every brand, bike clubs and even women’s bike clubs. This was clearly a great destination for a journey on two wheels.

Beyond the bikes were fishermen, optimistically casting their nets in the warm, shallow waters, but few fish remained to be caught at the end of this day.

As we ambled back, we paused to watch two Brahminy kites soaring overhead. These were the first type of kite, regal predators looking for their catch in the shimmering water beneath. Soaring, climbing, swooping in a way their plastic rivals tried to emulate. No squeals or tangled strings here, just magnificent birds hunting for dinner.

We were reluctant to head home, so stopped off for some fresh ice lemon tea and a chance to savour the day, absorbing the sounds and smells of the scene around us, happy to be lulled by the unceasing rhythm of the waves before heading back to the city we call home.